Third & Final Fantastic Northern New Mexico Day Trip through Chimayo, Rio Grande, and Taos
I feel like I could have written a book by now covering all the unbelievable sites and experiences of my month-plus sojourn in New Mexico. Instead, there are eight blogposts that share the highlights, should you choose to partake in any of these explorations.
Alas, all great times come to an end. I couldn’t resist sharing this last special road trip exploring the can’t-miss spiritual site of Chimayo, the rustic town of Taos, and the gorgeous Rio Grande river valley.
To start this post on the right foot, sharing a map might be helpful in orienting you. Follow the NM-84 north out of Santa Fe and you’ll see signs for Chimayo off to the right in about 30 minutes.
Tip 1: The Sanctuary at Chimayo is often referred to as the “Lourdes of North America”. Regardless of your religious affiliation, this is a place of spiritual, emotional, and for some, physical healing that you will feel all the way to the tips of your soul.
The photo of the sanctuary through the archway was so welcoming and picturesque! It made me reminisce about the “Sound of Music” movie from my early childhood, including snippets of songs I then couldn’t get out of my head. “Doe, a deer, a female deer…” or “So long, farewell…” Now you can be tormented by these snippets as well!
Tip 2: The tin roof installed in 1922 to cover the sanctuary was replaced in 1999 by artist Bobby Garcia. He made crosses from the previous rusted roof that are available for sale at the local Gallery. These are perfect as rustic wall hangings or Christmas ornaments to help you fondly remember this visit. Authentic art pieces made from the old tin roof are labelled with “1922” on the back side.
Tip 3: Chimayo is also famous for its spices, especially the Chimayo pepper. Both green and red (ripened) varieties are available.
What makes them special is the smoky, earthy flavor drawn from the mountainous arid conditions where they are grown in this tiny northern New Mexico town. More on these peppers can be found here.
Needless to say, a visit to Chimayo isn’t complete without a stop the Gallery across the street.
You’ll learn more about the Chimayo pepper and sample a whole variety of spice blends here, all served up in the empty half of a pistachio shell. My favorite is the Christmas blend, a mixture of red and green chilis.
In this quaint place that’s part spice stand and part artisan craft shop, you’ll also find many pieces of local art, ornaments made from the old tin roof, and sage sticks for purchase. I filled my souvenir bag with the many choices before I even got to entering the Sanctuary itself!
Tip 4: The inside of the Sanctuary is colorfully and uniquely decorated in a combination of Indian and Spanish design. Looking at the altarpiece alone, it’s easy to see why thousands of pilgrims walk hundreds of miles during Holy Week to arrive here on Good Friday.
While I visited in January and avoided the throng of pilgrims that descend upon Chimayo each year, it reminded me of the hundreds of miles long Camino de Santiago trek across Spain I’ve walked a couple of times.
If you’ve never done a pilgrimage, consider one! I’ve found nothing better for soul-healing than a long walk in quiet contemplation across the countryside.
Tip 5: On the small, printed cards meant for Chimayo visitors to take home, it says, “Live your life as a pilgrim, not as a tourist.” I love this quote.
Pilgrims are people who live life in the present moment and consider their journey, wherever it takes them, a sacred one.
Tourists, on the other hand, are focused on checking off a bucket list and getting to the next place. In a sense, pilgrims are about the journey and tourists are about the destination. How do you live your life, as a pilgrim or a tourist?
Tip 6: Back to the Sanctuary. One of the special areas here is a small, plain room off the chapel called “el pocito” where Holy Dirt is found in a small hole in the center of the floor.
Taking a scoop of this dirt is a ritual that helps you let go of your afflictions.
Many have let go of physical afflictions here, and there’s a roomful of crutches just outside serving as a visible reminder of the power of this place.
The dirt is replenished from the nearby hillside, so there is always enough for everyone to experience this process. Click on this link to learn more about the backstory of this special place.
Tip 7: It’s worth the time to stroll in the peace and tranquility of Chimayo’s grounds.
There are several grotto areas, a walk along the river with stone arches that depict the Genesis story, and even a special area dedicated to Santiago (St. James)/Santo Niño that brought me back to my days along the Camino de Santiago in Spain.
Tip 8: Once you’re finished strolling and contemplating, be sure to visit Chimayo’s Santo Niño Chapel a few steps away.
The Santo Niño chapel is dedicated to the Catholic Santo Niño de Atocha, the Holy Infant, who is popular in Spanish culture. A Saint depicted as a child is somewhat unusual and represents a very small percentage of the 10,000 Saints recognized by the Catholic Church.
While having the faith of a child is heralded throughout the Bible, to become a Saint one needs to have been martyred for one’s faith or have performed miracles, which are not typical in childhood. This makes our Santo Niño all the more intriguing. Read more about the legend of this 12 year old pilgrim Saint here.
Before entering the church, it’s interesting to note the part of this legend (dating more than 1400 years) that’s about children’s shoes.
After the Pilgrim boy with the staff, gourd filled with water, and food (who is depicted in the image of fellow Spanish pilgrim St James/Santiago) kept reappearing to assist those in need, the Spanish town folk visited the Blessed Mother, known as Our Lady of Atocha there.
They noticed the shoes on the infant she held in the statue were dusty and worn. The women continually replaced the shoes which they found dusty and worn each time they visited the statue.
Tip 9: Knowing this backstory as you enter the Santo Niño chapel makes it all the more interesting. Its whimsical décor is sure to inspire your inner child, as it did mine.
There is a stained-glass door depicting Santo Niño himself (zoom in), a child-motif altarpiece behind the altar, cute nooks and crannies filled with children’s pictures and statues, and tiny shoes attached to the ceiling reminiscent of the shoe miracle we talked about earlier.
Tip 10: When you’re finished exploring this spiritually soothing place, plan to next visit Taos to check out the town square and grab a burger at the Burger Stand at Taos Ale House.
It’s another hour’s drive to Taos from Chimayo but I found it worth it even though I wasn’t planning to schuss down the famous ski-slopes there.
The town square with its quaint shops is fun to wander through. There are also any number of interesting paintings on the walls of buildings throughout town, a kind of rustic street art.
Tip 11: There’s also a Native American pueblo that’s been continuously inhabited for over 1000 years that’s a highlight I’ll have to catch next time as it was closed (as are all Native American sites in NM) due to Covid, even as of the May 2021 writing of this blog.
Check the Taos Pueblo website before you go if that’s your primary motivation for a drive to Taos.
Tip 12: The best part of Taos (besides the burger) was getting a glimpse of the Rio Grande bridge (aka the High Bridge or the Gorge Bridge) a few miles north of town.
It’s the tenth highest bridge in the U.S., rising a dizzying 600 feet above the river Rio Grande below. Check out the bridge photo here and the stunning view of the river from the bridge on my TravelistaLiz Instagram profile.
Tip 13: As you meander back toward Santa Fe, there are plenty of places to drive and hike along the rim and the river below.
The West Rim trail starts near the Rio Grande bridge and is a flat out and back 3.5 miles with stunning views of the river below. Click on the link here for the Top 5 Taos area hikes.
Sample a little or a lot of this jaw-dropping terrain, just don’t miss the chance to get outside and breathe some fresh New Mexico air!
Tip 14: For river level views and experiences, I encourage you to take the NM-570 to where it intersects the NM-567 at the Taos Junction Bridge. The bridge is quaint, but not the point. This drive takes you along the beautiful Rio Grande. It has plenty of spots to pull off the side of the road for a quick photo, hike, or picnic lunch.
I hope this itinerary inspires you to get outside and explore, wherever you may live. Add this to your list of worthy day trip adventures in northern New Mexico the next time you visit this magical state.
I loved every minute of my five week stay here exploring all the off-the-grid locations I could find. Even during a Covid-lockdown (January 2021) I was never bored or disappointed with all the natural beauty to be found in this 47th U.S. state.
If you have any questions, drop them in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer. If you’re interested in learning more about my life as a “Travelista”, check out my Instagram @travelistaliz for more photos and stories.